The quality is higher than ever, with chocolatiers obsessing over the percentage and blends of the chocolate coating, the feed of the cows that produce the butter, the minerality of the sea salt.
Ages before Starbucks introduced its salted caramel mocha, caramel candy made with salted butter was a traditional confection in France, Brittany in particular.
Today, the gray salt-topped caramels are iconic (so much so that we did not include them in our blind tasting, since they are too recognizable), and salted caramel chocolates are de rigueur for artisanal and commercial chocolate makers across the country.
Julia Moskin, Florence Fabricant and I sampled 27 candies, alongside Karen DeMasco, the pastry chef at Locanda Verde in Manhattan, and Michael Laiskonis, the creative director of the Institute of Culinary Education (and the former executive pastry chef at Le Bernardin).